My Christmas Eve

It was the strangest Christmas Eve ever--for me, anyway. Dean and I had planned on going to the English midnight mass at the Myeongdong Cathedral. We finished work around 5, came back to our rooms, had some dinner (really yummy chicken), and watched The Two Towers on tv. We left around 9 PM, thinking that 3 hours is plenty of time to at least standing room at the cathedral. We were wrong.

Upon arriving in Myeongdong, we were shocked. Myeongdong is a famous shopping area in Seoul--streets with no cars and only shoppers, stands set up in the roads selling everything from scarves to fried eel, boutiques everywhere, big name brands with four story shops, multiple Starbucks and Coffee Beans, etc. I had heard that Korea doesn't really shut down for Christmas the way America does, but I was absolutely blown away last night. I had never seen Myeongdong so crowded--thousands of people clogged the narrow streets until we were literally at standstills. One car attempted to drive through the masses, much to the anger and annoyance of us pedestrians. I have never been in such a claustrophobic experience.

We finally made it up the hill to the cathedral, where we were met with another surprise. A huge line (about 7 people wide) was wrapped around the large cathedral--countless numbers of people were already waiting, and it was only 9:40. There was plenty of security, plus metal barriers and church staff. I was so surprised that so many people were there for the ENGLISH service at midnight! But we got at the back of a very depressing line and tried to wait it out.

Meanwhile, we were still receiving text messages from our friends, Aerim and Jongman. They're not Christians and Aerim is a self-proclaimed hater of Christmas. The entire subway ride to Myeongdong, we had been getting texts from both of them with messages like, "Come on, let's play!", "You DO realize that you're trying to get to the most famous church in Korea, right?", "It's like singles X-mas eve here with us--so depressing," and, "WE NEED YOU." They had told us that they were going to Hongdae, the infamous club/party area in Seoul. They us to come, but we said, "No, really, we need to go to church tonight." Well, we had been waiting in line for maybe 15 minutes when who should appear but Aerim and Jongman!! They had come all the way to the Myeongdong cathedral to find us. By that time, Dean and I realized that there was no way we'd be getting into that church--not even with standing room (people were jumping the line like nobody's business). So we relented and left with our two mischievous Koreans.

We ended up at a swanky bar not too far from the cathedral. After paying for our drinks (about $10 USD each, yeesh), we had a relaxing time just talking. We exchanged some incredibly amusing stories until abut 2 AM. Dean and I took a taxi back to Sillim--worst taxi ride ever. The driver was terrible. Dean and I opened our presents around noon today, then ate our cake that I had bought from Paris Baguette.

Here are our favorite evil elves, Jongman and Aerim


Dean's face is blurred out! Muahahaha


A scene from one of the streets in Myeongdong--sadly, this is even a side street, not even one of the main ones. Those were SO BAD.


Korean food always comes with "banchan", or side orders. These always include kimchi and usually some other kind of vegetable or fish. They come free and will get filled for free, too, but a lot of people waste it and at the end of the night, it all gets trashed.


Our lovely Christmas tree


Dean lit the candles on our cake


Blue loved the ribbon


Blue hopes for some Christmas kindness from Dean, but to no avail.


I took this today.


And here is a 2 minute video with scenes from the insanity in Myeongdong, plus the lines at the cathedral.

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Thank you everyone for your cards and gifts! Even though last night was a bit strange, it did feel like Christmas this morning. I love you all and hope your Christmas day is beautiful.